Treadmill Buying Guide:
Price:
A quality motorized treadmill is going to cost you at least $1000. The quality of treadmills (cushioning, construction, parts, quality) drops substantially once you go below $800.
According to expert Gregory Florez, spokesperson for the American Council on Exercise, "Just about anything under $900 is not made to be used over the long haul."
There are ways to save on your treadmill (which is why we provide coupons and disount links on our treadmill reviews at this site). But the bottom line is that a treadmill is an investment in your health. It will last you 10 years or more so you really want to invest in a quality unit built to last.
Motor & Horsepower:
The motor is the heart of your treadmill. Motor power is measured by horsepower - HP. Unless your treadmill has a strong motor (at least 1.5 horsepower) you will quickly wear it out, even if only moderately walking.
When looking at motors and horsepower, there are two different ratings:
- Continuous Duty (which is the rating for steady, continual 24 hour motor use), and
- Peak Duty (which is the maximum power potential, however it cannot be maintained).
When looking at treadmills you want to know the Continuous Duty motor power. It's recommended that you go with at least a 1.75 HP continuous duty (CD) motor (preferably higher).
For runners or those planning heavy use of their treadmills, I recommend at least a 2.5 - 3 HP continuous duty motor so that your motor doesn't quickly burn out on you and end up costing you in expensive treadmill repairs.
Treadmill Buying Guide Tip: Many cheaper brands will often give you the Peak Duty motor power (since it's always higher than the Continuous Duty rating) just to impress unsuspecting buyers. Make sure you know the continuous duty rating when comparing units.
Belt:
Average treadbelt widths range from 17" to 22" and lengths from 51" to 61". Never go below a belt width of 16" and make sure that the belt is long enough to accomodate your stride.
Treadmill Buying Guide Tip: If you are tall and/or have long legs, it's better to go with a longer belt (55" or more). Make sure you also consider anyone else who will be using the treadmill and their height as well.
Cushioning:
This is the ability of the treadmill to absorb the force of your step. Better cushioning means lower impact on your joints and ligaments. Cushioning is extremely important as poor cushioning can hurt you and cause exercise injuries, muscle strains,etc.
Many quality treadmills have their own form of cushioning system to protect you. For example, Sole treadmills use one of the best cushioning systems around - the Cushion Flex running surface, shown in a study to reduce impact by 40% compared to running on asphalt.
Stability:
According to Runner's World, stability is the most important quality in a treadmill. Stability is how smooth a ride the treadmill provides you. There should be no shaking or wobbling when you start to run.
For higher stability, check out the user weight capacity (the higher the better) and the unit weight (a heavier treadmill may be tough to move around, but it will feel more solid when you run on it.)
Treadmill Buying Guide Tip: Generally with treadmills you get what you pay for. For a high stability, high quality treadmill you should be willing to spend at least $1000, and definitely more if you plan on using it heavily. There's no use spending $500-600 on something you're scared to use it.
Console:
Look at both the layout and user-friendliness of the console displays and controls. This is largely a matter of personal preference since some people want to see a constant display of calories burned or miles covered,etc. And some people don't care. Others may want a built-in console TV, lots of pre-programmed workouts or a3 speed fan to keep them cool.
Heart Rate Monitor/Heart Rate Control:
Again, this is largely a personal preference whether or not you want to monitor your heart rate. A heart rate monitor simply shows you at what rate your heart is beating while you work out.
Some people like to take a step up and get a heart rate control which can actually adjust the treadmill pace to keep you in your target fat-burning zone.
Warranty:
Treadmill warranties vary across the board and again, you usually get what you pay for. The warranty gives you a good idea of the quality of parts used in building the treadmill (ever wondered why those cheap department store brands only offer you 90 day warranties?).
Treadmill Buying Guide Tip: A quality warranty will include at least 10 years on the frame, 5 years on the motor, 2 years on parts and 1 year on labor. (Keep in mind that the motor is usually the most expensive to fix).
Where to Buy A Treadmill:
There are a number of options here but mainly they fall into 2 categories:
#1) A Store
#2) Online
- Store Advantages: You can run on the treadmill.
- Store Disadvantages: You'll probably pay more for the same treadmill you can get online simply because the store has overhead costs and salespeople to pay. Stores will also charge you for shipping and delivery and you'll also pay sales tax.
- Online Disadvantages: You can't run on the treadmill
- Online Advantages: You can save a lot of money buying direct from the manufacturer, sometimes $1400 or more. You can usually get free shipping and save on sales tax too which will save you even more money.
Plus you have a larger selection to choose from so you can find a better treadmill - or even a more sophisticated commercial grade one than the stores carry.
So that's it! You now know what to look for when buying a treadmill. I hope this treadmill buying guide has helped you feel more comfortable and confident about your decision.
